10 Types of Traditional Indonesian Fabrics, Not Just Batik

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Batik is a traditional Indonesian fabric that has gained international popularity. However, besides batik, there are many other traditional Indonesian fabrics that are equally beautiful and exotic. Each has its own unique characteristics and philosophy associated with its region of origin.

Batik is a type of traditional Indonesian fabric that has gained international popularity. Many people choose batik as a material for clothing or even souvenirs.

Besides batik, there are many other types of traditional Indonesian fabrics that are equally beautiful and exotic. Each has its own unique characteristics and philosophy of its region of origin. The Indonesian Ministry of Education and Culture has designated 33 types of traditional fabrics as cultural heritage.

Besides batik, other types of fabrics include songket, tenun, ulos, and several rare and hard-to-find fabrics. According to the websites of each regional government and the Ministry of Education and Culture, here are some types of traditional Indonesian fabrics:

1.Palembang Songket (South Sumatra)

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The first type of traditional fabric is Palembang Songket. Evidence of songket's existence since the Srivijaya era can be seen in the clothing that covers the statues in the Tanah Abang temple complex, Muara Enim Regency, South Sumatra.

This fabric is woven from various types of thread, including gold thread, a product of trade with China and India. The skill of making Palembang songket has been passed down through generations.

During traditional ceremonies or wedding celebrations in Palembang, brides and grooms typically wear songket complete with Aesan Gede (grandiose), Aesan Pengganggon (peksangko), Selendang Mantri (mantri shawl), Aesan Gandek (handkerchief), and other accessories. In terms of quality, Palembang songket fabric is among the finest in Indonesia.

2.Siak Weaving (Riau)

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Siak's most famous handicraft has long been a home-based industry, specifically weaving, known as Siak Weaving. Initially, weaving was only practiced within the palace as a sideline.

However, over time, weaving began to expand beyond the palace walls. Siak Weaving is a type of woven fabric made using cotton or silk thread with gold thread motifs such as bamboo shoots, elbows, mangosteen stems, and others.

Siak Weaving can be enjoyed as souvenirs or souvenirs of Siak. Currently, Siak Weaving is increasingly sought after by collectors, users, and tourists visiting Siak Regency.

3.Sambas Songket (West Kalimantan)

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The Sambas Malay community began to learn about and practice traditional weaving (both ikat and songket techniques) during the reign of Raden Bima (the second Sultan of Sambas, reigning from 1668 to 1708), who held the title Sultan Muhammad Tajudin.

To this day, the craft of Sambas Songket weaving is still widely practiced by people around the palace and along the rivers. Sambas woven fabrics have a variety of motifs and patterns.

One of its distinctive characteristics is the "puk" motif. The "puk rebung" motif is triangular, elongated, and pointed. It is called "puk rebung" because it resembles a young bamboo shoot.

4.Ulap Doyo (East Kalimantan)

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Ulap Doyo weaving is the art of weaving from the Dayak Benuaq tribe in Tanjung Isuy, Kutai Regency, East Kalimantan. It is called Doyo because the main material is Doyo leaf fiber.

Based on the age of the Kutai Kingdom and the Hindu community at that time, Ulap Doyo weaving is thought to have existed and developed before the 17th century. In the past, Ulap Doyo weaving motifs could be used as markers, characteristics, or social identities.

The traditional Ulap Doyo woven fabric can be worn by both men and women during traditional ceremonies, dances, and in the daily life of the Dayak Benuaq tribe. The Ulap Doyo weaving worn daily is black, while the colorful and patterned Ulap Doyo weaving is used in traditional ceremonies.

5.Gringsing Tenganan (Bali)

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Gringsing cloth is known as a distinctive feature of Tenganan Village, a form of ikat woven fabric. It is unknown exactly when Gringsing cloth first appeared in Tenganan Pegringsingan.

Gringsing cloth carries the meaning of a kind of ward off evil. Gringsing cloth is considered unique, authentic, and now extremely rare. The dyeing, thread-tying, and weaving processes can take between one and ten years to complete.

The longest time is spent on the dyeing process, which can take years to achieve the desired color. The Bali Aga people, and people outside Tenganan, believe that Gringsing cloth possesses magical powers that can protect them from illness and evil forces.

6.Maduaro (Lampung)

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Maduaro is a type of embroidered fabric from Lampung Province, a head scarf worn by the Menggala people. This Maduaro cloth from Lampung was originally brought by the ancestors of the Menggala people who performed the Hajj pilgrimage to Mecca in the 18th century.

Furthermore, Indian Gujarati traders also sold similar fabrics to the Menggala people, resulting in the motifs being influenced by Hindustani motifs. Subsequently, the community developed Maduaro cloth. Besides being used as a head covering, it is also made into Kawai Rajo (royal attire for the Penyimbang) during traditional ceremonies and Sesan (a traditional attire worn at weddings).

7.Sumba Ikat Weaving (East Nusa Tenggara)

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Ikat woven fabric is a type of fabric whose motifs are created by tying. The tying technique involves tying specific sections of yarn, ensuring the tying remains undyed and creates the desired motifs.

Based on the tying, ikat weaving can be divided into three types: warp ikat, weft ikat, and double ikat. Ikat weaving is unique to the Sasak community on the island of Lombok.

Ikat weaving has been known to the Sasak community in certain circles for a long time. However, it began to gain popularity and development in the 1960s when individual weaving companies emerged in the city.

8.Karawo (Gorontalo)

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Karawo is the craft of decorating various types of fabric with embroidery motifs using plain and colored threads. The process of making Karawo embroidery involves slicing and removing the threads from the fabric fibers, which are then embroidered with various threads according to the desired motif.

The embroidery process can take one week to one month, depending on the motif and type of fabric. Karawo embroidery is becoming increasingly popular due to the increasing variety of fabrics used. The colors and designs of the motifs are also becoming more attractive, tailored to consumer tastes.

9.Cual Cloth (Bangka Belitung)

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One of Bangka's signature handicrafts is Cual woven cloth. Cual weaving was originally an activity of the noblewomen of Muntok, West Bangka, in the Patenon village in the 18th century. Cual weaving is a type of traditional Muntok cloth that involves pre-dyeing the yarn to be dyed.

Cual weaving is a combination of sungkit and ikat techniques. Cual woven cloth motifs include full-patterned motifs (Pengantek Bekecak) and empty-space motifs (Jande Bekecak). Cual weaving is renowned for its incredibly smooth texture, the consistent color of the yarn dye, and the variety of motifs that appear to emerge from a distance.

10.Donggala Woven Cloth (Central Sulawesi)

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Donggala woven fabric is unique in the types of techniques used and the motifs used. There are six types of Donggala woven cloth. The first is the Garusu Adhesive cloth which has a checkered pattern with a combination of dark red colors.

The two Buya Sura cloths are influenced by Samarinda, in terms of their color which is dominated by purple. Third is Buya Bomba, ikat weaving with a floral pattern. Fourth, Buya Subi, weaving made using the songket technique.

Next is Bomba Kota, this type of cloth is formed with a checkered motif decoration. Lastly is Buya Awi, a type of plain cloth with one color without any decoration and is not used as clothing material, but as a blanket or bed cover.

So, those are 10 traditional fabrics from Indonesia besides batik, and there are many more traditional fabrics from Indonesia that the author has not mentioned in this post, hopefully it is useful and thank you.

Regards @nazaroel