A Journey into the Underground City of Wine: What to Expect at Milestii Mici.
A visit to Milestii Mici is not merely a wine tasting; it is a pilgrimage into the heart of Moldovan viticulture, an exploration of a subterranean world that holds a world record, and an experience that engages all the senses. As the holder of the Guinness World Record for the world's largest wine collection, expectations are high, and the reality rarely disappoints. Here’s what you can anticipate on a guided tour of this legendary winery.
The Descent into a Limestone Labyrinth
Your adventure begins above ground, at a modest administrative building. After a brief introduction, you will board a vehicle—often a minibus or your own car, as personal vehicles are typically used for the tour itself. This is your first clue that this is no ordinary cellar; you are about to traverse a vast underground city.
You will then descend through one of the many gates into the cool, constant climate of the ancient limestone mines. The transformation is immediate. The world above fades away as you enter a maze of wide, dimly lit tunnels stretching over 200 kilometers (124 miles), of which only a fraction is ever seen by tourists. The air becomes noticeably cooler and carries the distinct, humid aroma of stone and aging wine—a scent known to oenophiles as the "angel's share."
The Guided Tour: A Drive-Through Museum
Unlike most wineries where you walk between barrels, the scale of Milestii Mici necessitates a driving tour. Your guide will lead your vehicle convoy through a carefully planned route deep inside the mountain. This unique "drive-through" cellar is a highlight in itself, feeling like a journey through a secret, wine-filled metropolis.
As you drive, your guide, via a radio system, will point out the intricacies of the complex:
The Streets: The tunnels are not randomly dug; they are organized like a city, with main boulevards named after classic wine varieties (e.g., Cabernet Street, Chardonnay Street) and smaller side alleys.
The Galleries: You’ll pass endless rows of massive oak barrels and countless wine bottles lying in their metal racks, collecting dust and history. The sight of millions of bottles, some decades old, is breathtaking in its scale.
The Conditions: The guide will explain the natural perfection of the mines: a constant temperature of 12-14°C (54-57°F) and 85-95% humidity, ideal for the slow, graceful aging of wine without any need for artificial climate control.
The Unforgettable Highlights
While the entire experience is remarkable, several key moments stand out.
The Collection Impressive (The "Golden Collection"): The tour culminates at a special, often more ornate, gallery where the oldest and most valuable wines are kept. Here, you’ll see bottles from the inaugural 1968 vintage and other legendary years, their labels and capsules shimmering under the lights. This is the crown jewel of the world's largest collection, a true library of wine history.
The Tasting Room Experience: After the driving tour, you will be led to one of the winery’s magnificent tasting halls. carved directly into the limestone. These rooms are often grand and elegant, with vaulted ceilings, ornate chandeliers, and long wooden tables set with fine glassware. The setting is both rustic and royal, enhancing the ceremony of tasting.
The Wine Tasting Itself: The tasting is the grand finale. Typically, you will sample several of Milestii Mici’s finest wines, which often include:
Fetească Neagră: Moldova's revered indigenous red grape, known for its deep, plummy flavor.
Fetească Albă / Regală: Aromatic and crisp native white varieties.
A Noble Late Harvest or Dessert Wine: Showcasing the sweetness and complexity that the Moldovan climate can produce.
A Classic European Varietal: Such as a rich Cabernet Sauvignon or a smooth Merlot.
The guide will expertly talk you through each wine, its characteristics, and the ideal food pairings.
The Cultural Connection: Beyond the wine, the experience is a deep dive into Moldovan culture. Wine is the lifeblood of the nation, and Milestii Mici is its greatest temple. Your guide will share stories of how wine is intertwined with national identity, making the tasting feel like a celebration of Moldova itself.
Practicalities to Expect
Booking is Essential: Tours are popular and must be booked well in advance.
Duration: Plan for a total experience of 2-3 hours, including the drive, tour, and tasting.
Temperature: The underground galleries are cool year-round. Bringing a light jacket or sweater is highly recommended.
Designated Driver: If you are driving your own car, remember that the driver will also be offered the wine tasting. It's crucial to have a spit bucket available or a pre-arranged sober driver if you plan to consume the wine legally and safely.
In conclusion, a guided tour of Milestii Mici is a unique and unforgettable odyssey. It combines geological wonder, historical intrigue, and world-class oenology into one seamless experience. You will leave not just with the taste of excellent wine on your palate, but with the awe-inspiring memory of having explored a hidden underground city dedicated entirely to the art of winemaking.